Driving along the Amalfi Coast is not for the faint of heart – or stomach.
The road wraps around the rugged coastline for over 50km, dipping in and out along the Mediterranean Sea. Cars, coach buses, and plenty of vespas make hairpin turns at alarming speeds, beeping as they turn corners on too narrow stretches. There was more than one occasion when our bus would come face to face with another bus; unable to pass, one would be forced to back up until we reached a wider stretch of road.
Needless to say, it was with a roiling stomach that I got off the bus in Positano (I fared better than some other passengers, however; two little kids lost their breakfasts on the way). But the beautiful view of Positano was more than enough to make up for the hairy drive!
The town of Positano is built into the hollowed curve of two mountains that make up the coast. The houses are built terrace-like into the cliffs and slope downwards to the sea.
The beach itself is tiny, but so so gorgeous! Like most “beaches” around here, there is no sand, just pebbles. When you put your head underwater, you can hear a crackling sound as the pebbles are gently swept in and out with the waves. And the water! Deep blue and totally see-through.
I don’t have many pictures from the beach itself, because my iPhone is not in the best of shape and I was worried about water damage. But I think Positano is quite possibly the most beautiful beach I’ve ever been to. In one direction, across the sea, you could see the distant island of Capri and stretches of deep blue water dotted with yachts and motor boats, while in the other, you were treated to the tiled dome of the town church’s cupola against the steeply rising cliffs. Bellissima!
I spent a few hours at the beach, packed in on the pebbles with the other Italian tourists. In the afternoon, I continued down the Amalfi Coast towards the town of Amalfi. A similar-sized town, Amalfi seems to cater more towards tourist. I spent the afternoon roaming the town with a new friend, lusting after pairs of homemade leather sandals, stopping for a picture on the pier, and eating gelato.
A note on my hair: it has become wild here! The water is so salty in the Mediterranean – you can actually hear it by rubbing your fingers together after a dip. The saltwater turns my hair into a crazy curly poof, so I’ve just been throwing it into a giant pile on my head.
Because this is the height of Italian tourist season, the drive back to Sorrento from Amalfi was laden with traffic and took twice as long as it should. So it was gelato to the rescue again! Instantly improved the state of my stomach after the harrowing two hour drive along the coast.
This may or may not have been my second gelato of the day….
Positano and the Amalfi Coast were absolutely breathtaking. It was the perfect way to end my time in Italy.
Ciao for now, Italia!